![]() ![]() Compare that to the wattage rating of your power inverter, and that'll tell you if it can handle the draw.Īnother thing to check is your vehicle's fuse rating for the 12-volt port-the fuse on our test van was 20 amps. Multiply the voltage (5 volts for USB, 12 volts for cigarette lighter, and 120 volts for an AC) by the amperage of your device to get the wattage. All it takes is some simple math to know if an inverter can handle what you want to plug in. ![]() Wattage rating: This might be the most important factor when it comes to buying a power inverter. Which one do you get? To make your power-inverter party run smoothly, here are some things to consider. There are a whole bunch of different power inverters out there, each with different wattage ratings. And finally, we took notes on the usability of each inverter. We then measured the power-cord length from the base of the inverter to the end of the plug. We counted the number of USB and AC ports each inverter had, along with the weight via a mail scale. We then took notes on how much each inverter could take and which fuse blew first for our surge protection test. We stacked these devices in ascending watt-usage order until the internal power inverter fuse popped or, in two cases, the 20-amp vehicle fuse blew. Blender: 290 watts at peak, 125 watts continuous.Here's the power draw for each device we measured with a Kill-A-Watt: Our first devices were iPhone and iPad chargers, then we progressed through a Milwaukee battery charger, a blender, a dual-action polisher, and finally, a hair dryer. Gear Team Tester Katherine lent her dependable 2001 Ford E-150-affectionately known as Rhonda-for this test, and it was a true vehicular champ.įor our main supported devices test, we plugged in various gizmos starting at the lowest wattage and working our way up. The no-brainer test ended up being, "If I plug this in, will it work?" While this was the main parameter we wanted to try, we included other valuable data in our test results. I do remember having an appointment for a battery issue once, and they had a MagSafe adapter right under the counter, and plugged it in before diagnosing with an iPod through USB.ĭid you check System Report under Hardware>Power? You might also try installing coconutBattery.We wanted to test power inverters in the same way most people would use them. I might have suggested going to an Apple Store, but at this point I'm not sure they have any available behind the counter (although some MagSafe 1 machines are still technically supported). Maybe you know someone else with a MagSafe adapter? It doesn't even need to be the same power rating since they all should work to some degree. That's what's controlling the light on the MagSafe head, although if it doesn't light up there's a chance that the LED is malfunctioning or that the adapter has an issue.ĭo you have another power adapter? I've got two, so I'm equipped to rule out a bad adapter if I had a problem similar to yours. It's a DC power supply, but Apple calls it a "power adapter". It's not technically a charger although I know it's commonly called that. Just a few things that might help to understand how it works. I already tried resetting the SMC like 5 times and it hasn't fixed it. ![]() ![]() The macbook does not recognize it as charging and it charges extremely slowly. I plugged in my charger and the light won't come on. ![]()
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